- bushing mounts
- rod end mounts
- X carriage
- X motor mount
- Z motor mounts
- threaded rod motor couplers
- threaded rod guide bearings.
- wood frame
- 80s hp plotter pen selection motor (Y)
- 90s plotter spool and cables (Y)
- some random nema 17 found at goodwill (X)
- a lightly modified atx power supply
- various brackets and hardware
- laser printer rods (don't forget to check inside the toner cartridges!)
- plotter limit microswitches
- sewing thread spool
- paint stir stick
- roller skate bearings (Better than cheap ebay 608s by a mile!!)
I bought this kit from ebay
- arduino is a fake, though branded as real. I don't think there would be silk screen errors on a real one.
- Ramps is spelled wrong on the board, so they must not be using the same board files
- The motor drivers have pots with dead zones and no stops
- The fit was ever so slightly off for all components, but all fit with wiggling.
- 26awg kanthal
- 20mm wide kapton tape
- 2mm id 4mm of ptfe teflon tubing
- glass thermistor (marlin table 1)
- 1/4" threaded rod and washers/couplers
Update: I gave up on homebrew after about 10kg and am using a clone e3d v6 now
- 3 nema 17 motors (E and 2x Z)
- 5/16" threaded rod and couplers for Z
- some 608 brearings for Z and supporting X
- Y is a bit skippy
print pics <-- More pics
Hotend / extruder
3d_print_head Printer extruder and hotend info
3d_printer_bed <-- More pictures of the print beds
threaded rod z mechanism for printer. finally solving the leveling problem.
(old) auto bed leveling probe
used two servo output pins (d4 and d6) to deploy and retract a probe for auto bed leveling. The digital pins are wired to an l293d chip and powered by 5v. the motor is a rumble motor hacked on to part of an rc car gearbox. the probe arm was printed and attached to the output gear.
This thing was great when it worked, but it was prone to jamming and would often crash the head into the bed. Removed and went back to an adjustable z probe. auto bed leveling
(old) adjustable z stop
The upper block has a loose screw through it to pull it down against the spring on the bottom block. With a microswitch on the top block and the bottom block anchored to the frame, this functions to adjust the height of the z end stop.