3d printer

From silverwiki

Overview

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Status

  • Working

components

Printed components

  • bushings,
  • bushing mounts
  • rod end mounts
  • X carriage
  • X motor spool
  • the duck extruder
  • Z motor mounts
  • threaded rod motor couplers
  • threaded rod guide bearings.

Recycled components

  • wood frame
  • 80s hp plotter pen selection motor (Y)
  • 90s plotter spool and cables (Y)
  • 90s plotter carriage motor (X)
  • a lightly modified atx power supply
  • various brackets and hardware

New components

ramps

I bought this kit from ebay

  • arduino is a fake, though branded as real. I don't think there would be silk screen errors on a real one.
  • Ramps is spelled wrong on the board, so they must not be using the same board files
  • The motor drivers have pots with dead zones and no stops
  • The fit was ever so slightly off for all components, but all fit with wiggling.

hotend parts

  • 26awg kanthal
  • 20mm wide kapton tape
  • 2mm id 4mm of ptfe teflon tubing
  • glass thermistor (marlin table 1)
  • 1/4" threaded rod and washers/couplers

motors

  • 3 nema 17 motors (E and 2x Z)

mechanical

  • 5/16" threaded rod and couplers for Z
  • some 608 brearings for Z and supporting X

Problems

  • New printed X is a bit saggy in the middle

Ref

Print Pics

print pics <-- More pics

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Hotend / extruder

3d_print_head Printer extruder and hotend info

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print bed

3d_printer_bed <-- More pictures of the print beds

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z mechanism

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threaded rod z mechanism for printer. finally solving the leveling problem.

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(old) auto bed leveling probe

used two servo output pins (d4 and d6) to deploy and retract a probe for auto bed leveling. The digital pins are wired to an l293d chip and powered by 5v. the motor is a rumble motor hacked on to part of an rc car gearbox. the probe arm was printed and attached to the output gear.

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This thing was great when it worked, but it was prone to jamming and would often crash the head into the bed. Removed and went back to an adjustable z probe.

(old) adjustable z stop

The upper block has a loose screw through it to pull it down against the spring on the bottom block. With a microswitch on the top block and the bottom block anchored to the frame, this functions to adjust the height of the z end stop.

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