3d printer

From silverwiki


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  • Working


Printed components

Printable LM8UU-sized PLA bushing by triffid_hunter

z probe arm for auto bed leveling

Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder

Recycled components

  • 80s panasonic dot matrix print carriages (X and Z)
  • wood frame
  • an 80s hp plotter pen selection motor (Y)
  • a lightly modified atx power supply
  • 90s plotter spool and cables (Y)
  • game controller rumble motor with rc car gearbox for z probe deploy/retract

New components


I bought this kit from ebay

  • arduino is a fake, though branded as real. I don't think there would be silk screen errors on a real one.
  • Ramps is spelled wrong on the board, so they must not be using the same board files
  • The motor drivers have pots with dead zones and no stops
  • The fit was ever so slightly off for all components, but all fit with wiggling.

hotend parts

  • 26awg kanthal
  • 20mm wide kapton tape
  • 2mm id 4mm of ptfe teflon tubing
  • glass thermistor (marlin table 1)
  • 1/4" threaded rod and washers/couplers


  • bed leveling is not working perfectly


Print Pics

print pics <-- More pics

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Hotend / extruder

3d_print_head Printer extruder and hotend info

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temp sensors

Attempted to use:

  • 1991 jeep cherokee coolant sensor (worked until it melted)
  • powermac g4 120mm fan speed control thermistor (Worked, turned black though)
  • Now using normal glass 3950 ones.

Guide and maps: How to calibrate temp sensor in marlin

print bed

3d_printer_bed <-- More pictures of the print beds

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(old) auto bed leveling probe

used two servo output pins (d4 and d6) to deploy and retract a probe for auto bed leveling. The digital pins are wired to an l293d chip and powered by 5v. the motor is a rumble motor hacked on to part of an rc car gearbox. the probe arm was printed and attached to the output gear.

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This thing was great when it worked, but it was prone to jamming and would often crash the head into the bed. Removed and went back to an adjustable z probe.

(old) adjustable z stop

The upper block has a loose screw through it to pull it down against the spring on the bottom block. With a microswitch on the top block and the bottom block anchored to the frame, this functions to adjust the height of the z end stop.

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